After spending more than a week in Tokyo, you might think I’ve had enough Japanese food for at least a little while. After all, except for a few Western-style items, my consumption there consisted entirely of Japanese cuisine. However, the omakase experience at Sushi by Scratch in Healdsburg differs from your ordinary Japanese tabemono. Moreover, it’s not your typical type of omakase presentation. In fact, the Michelin Guide describes it as “no ordinary omakase spot.” While some aspects of a traditional sushi bar are evident, like cutting techniques and a small seating arrangement, Sushi by Scratch is remarkably different. Indeed, you might have what celebrities, influencers, and more say in their best-ever omakase experience.
Sushi by Scratch Healdsburg
106 Matheson St.
Healdsburg, CA 95448
(707) 579-7916
www.sushibyscratchrestaurants.com
Days and Times: Daily with seatings at 4 p.m., 6:15 p.m. and 8:30 p.m. by appointment. Price: $185
A Speakeasy-Like Environment
Sushi by Scratch Healdsburg does not have a restaurant storefront. Instead, you must walk into Chef Dustin Valette’s The Matheson restaurant and check in at the front. Then, a Matheson staff member will direct you to an outside patio where you’ll be first seated. Here, you’ll enjoy a cocktail or non-alcoholic variation and canapes. Afterward, your host will lead you to the small yet uber-stylish and certainly speakeasy-like sushi bar.
Sushi by Scratch Healdsburg Menu
If you try to search for a menu of Sushi by Scratch, you’re not likely to find one. That’s because there isn’t one available, although some signature items like bone marrow are standard. Instead, you’ll see the names of 16 types of protein on the back wall. In addition, you’ll know exactly where you’re sitting as there is a wood piece with your inscribed on tape. This evening’s menu contained proteins like Hamachi, madai (red sea bream), A5 wagyu, and unagi. A 17th protein may be introduced before topping the evening with a supremely delicious dessert if time permits. While there isn’t a food menu, you’ll see a drink list that includes premium sake, Japanese whisky, fine wine, and more.
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The Drink Menu
Despite not ordering any alcoholic drinks myself, there are several recommendations I can offer. For instance, you can purchase daiginjo sake in glass or bottles. Among the sake labels available are Dassai, Iwa, Kodama, Kuheiji, and Tenbi. As for wine, you have selections like Lelarge Pugeot Champagne, L’Octavin “Roi” Riesling, and a Valette rosé from Sonoma. Of course, other choices include Japanese spirits and cocktails, beer, and non-alcoholic drinks. In case you’re curious, I went with a superb-tasting green tea and a consistently topped glass of still water.
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Omakase Presentation at Sushi by Scratch Healdsburg
Sushi by Scratch Healdsburg is housed within a former private dining space of The Matheson. Wholly reimagined by the owners/chefs of Scratch Restaurants, it features ten seats and an impressive Hinoki wood counter. In addition, the space holds essentials, like a sake counter, glassware, and wood containers that hold saku slices and other proteins. Because the expert chefs keep you keenly focused on their fabulous nigiri creations, you may barely notice the 1930s-style Japanese jazz emanating from within the room. While the atmosphere may differ at other locations, the Healdsburg spot does not resemble a “bromakase.” That’s the term used by a couple of New York Times food critics.
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Quality of Fish/Seafood
Sushi by Scratch gets its fresh fish delivered twice weekly from a purveyor who purchases from the famed Toyosu Fish Market in Tokyo. In other words, you can sample some of the world’s finest and most expensive seafood on your nigiri. That’s not to mention the high-grade pure wasabi root and not some imitation wasabi commonly seen in other restaurants. The evening’s omakase was presented by the friendly and wonderfully talented chefs Darrian, Isaac, and Jo. While serving the 16 proteins, chefs Isaac and Jo give you an extraordinary experience while chef Darrian expertly commands your drink choices.
Highlights of the Evening
Due to the surging success of Sushi by Scratch, each of the Nilgiris is a standout on its own. However, you will find clear favorites that unsurprisingly appear on the omakase menu at other locations. First and foremost is the delectable bone marrow roasted, then slathered with gourmet sauces. That’s not to mention the Japanese unagi with bone marrow drippings and the always famous A5 wagyu nigiri. If you are fortunate enough to visit this exclusive sushi sanctuary, you’ll likely savor these to your liking.
Dessert
After all of the nigiri pieces have been served, you still must have an appetite for dessert. That’s because Scratch Restaurant’s delicious signature dessert is well worth your wait. In brief, it’s a lime ice cream bon bon topped with sesame seed shortbread and a matcha chocolate layering. If you enjoy it as much as I did, you’ll agree it’s heavenly.
HEAVENSAKE x Sushi by Scratch Restaurants
It’s hard to imagine an experience higher than the omakase at Sushi by Scratch Healdsburg. However, on June 7, you can have an even more elevated culinary experience with HEAVENSAKE x Sushi. Featuring a 17-course tasting menu and HEAVENSAKE sake from the renowned chef Regis Camus. Attendance for this event is $325 per person and will be held at 5 p.m., 7:15 p.m. and 9:30 p.m. Many tickets remain for the 5 p.m. and 9:30 p.m. seating, although the 7:15 p.m. will sell out. Leave a $50 credit on your bill to make a reservation.
How to Get to Sushi by Scratch Healdsburg
Sushi by Scratch is located inside The Matheson, in the heart of downtown Healdsburg. In more detail, both businesses reside along the boundaries of the town square. Sushi by Scratch is easily accessible from Highway 101, with free and paid public parking lots nearby. Of these, the closet lot is an AirGarage, although it can fill up on a busy evening. In light of this, a better choice might be the free lot on Vine Street between W. North and W. Matheson Streets. Just so you know, of the 269 parking spaces here, 25 at the corner of Vine and W. Matheson have a three-hour limit.
Sushi by Scratch Restaurants
Founded by owners/chefs Phillip Frankland Lee and Margarita Kallas Lee, Sushi by Scratch is a spinoff from their earlier successful venture, Sushi|Bar ATX. Since opening in Los Angeles in 2013, Scratch Restaurants has earned many celebrity endorsements while helping boost its reputation. Among these well-known celebrities are Selena Gomez, Cameron Diaz, Gwyneth Paltrow, Prince Harry, and Meghan Markle. However, it may have been an endorsement from comedian/podcaster Joe Rogan who sent the couple into the culinary stratosphere. Since opening in LA, Scratch Restaurants has expanded to eight other locations, including the newest in Healdsburg. In addition, a new Sushi by Scratch pop-up at Resorts World is taking reservations between June 4 and June 15.
About Phillip Frankland Lee and Margarita Kallas-Lee
A native of the San Fernando Valley of Los Angeles, Phillip Frankland Lee decided to become a sushi chef early on. He first started as a dishwasher but eventually worked his way up while training at Le Cordon Bleu. This led to culinary work at such stellar places as Alinea in Chicago, once known as the world’s best restaurant. Now just 28 years old, Chef Phillip Frankland Lee has appeared on cooking shows like “Chopped” and Top Chef. He married his high school sweetheart, Margarita Kallas, a Latvia native who serves as the executive pastry chef of Scratch Restaurants. The young couple has earned two separate Michelin stars – for its Sushi by Scratch in Montecito and Pasta|Bar in Encino.
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About the Author
Randy Yagi is an award-winning writer who served as the National Travel Writer for CBS from 2012 to 2019. More than 900 of his stories still appear in syndication across 23 CBS websites, including New York, Los Angeles, Chicago, and San Francisco. During his peak years with CBS, Randy had a reported digital audience reach of 489 million and 5.5 million monthly visitors. Additionally, his stories have appeared in the Daily Meal, CBS News, CBS Radio, Engadget, NBC.com, NJ.com, and Radio.com. He earned a Media Fellowship from Stanford University and is a Bay Area Travel Writers (BATW) member.
